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Guest Article: Exploring Nature: Black(fish)
Magic
By Matthew Davidson,
Sea Kayak Adventures, Inc.
Blackfish, aka Orca, or,
more commonly, killer whale - a creature that inspires awe in we land-bound
humans. "Blackfish" is what the coastal Kwakwaka'wakw band (First Nations
peoples) in British Columbia call these sleek hunters, which are actually
mammals. Technically, Orcas are very large dolphins - with much larger teeth.
Whales have always been important to BC's native people. Killer whales
especially were believed to possess great powers and were never to be
harmed.
As 12 of us kayakers
paddled out into Canada's Johnstone Strait one calm September morning, we all
knew what we wanted: to see some Blackfish up close, to experience some of the
magic. But I'm sure that everyone was also asking themselves the same question
- how close do I really want to get?
Johnstone Strait is the
northwest portion of the body of water separating Vancouver Island from
mainland British Columbia. It's part of what is sometimes referred to as
Canada's Inside Passage. From July through early September, the northern
resident group of Orcas, numbering 250 individuals, ply the strait in their
quest for the multitudes of salmon migrating from the ocean to the many
pristine streams and rivers in this area. Members of a kayaking group that had
just returned from a similar six-day trip had regaled us with thrilling tales
of numerous encounters with large family groups of Orcas, called pods. We hoped
that we would be so lucky.
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Expectations were high
that first morning as we set out from Bauza Cove for our first night's camp on
Hanson Island. But wouldn't it be too much to ask to see Orcas on our first day
on the water? I had always felt that experiencing wildlife close up was a
privilege that had to be earned. Luck was with us so far at least in regards to
the weather: clear sky, no wind, calm water. We set our course and headed for
the island, focusing on our paddling. After about an hour, within 10 minutes of
reaching sheltered Sunset Beach and our first night's encampment, we saw them
in the distance. Thin mists of water were popping up from the surface of the
water - Orcas expelling water from their blowholes and taking a breath before
submerging again. After a few more minutes we heard the sounds of the spouting.
One of our Canadian guides, Tim, instructed us to point the bows of our boats
towards the oncoming whales and stop paddling.
The pod consisted of
about seven or eight animals and was heading right for us. The excitement and
anticipation was palpable. How close would we get to them? At this point, the
Orcas would be deciding that. We sat motionless, watching the huge black fins
rise up and then plunge beneath the glassy surface. Within moments they were
passing right through our group, to the left, to the right, and directly
beneath us. My heart was in my throat as I saw the six-foot dorsal fin of a
male adult about 20 yards in front of me disappear beneath the water. I looked
down and to my left as the huge black silhouette of the Orca glided by. I could
have reached down with my paddle and touched him.
As the pod swam off into
the distance behind us, we all collectively exhaled. We had just experienced
some Blackfish magic!
Matthew Davidson is a
free-lance writer/cartoonist living in Sandpoint, Idaho.
Click here for Johnstone Strait trip
description
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