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Guest Article: Go Sea Kayaking in Style
By Lucas Aykroyd -
Special to Westcoast Backpackers News September 2000
Sea Kayak Adventures has
recently begun offering six-day tours of Queen Charlotte Strait, the
lesser-known neighbor of Johnstone Strait, which features the world's highest
concentration of killer whales. It's a chance to experience the British
Columbia wilds without other groups of affluent tourist waving to you and local
fishing boats tooting their horn. One such tour was in late July.
Launching from the town
of Port Hardy, the group of 16 (from as far away as Connecticut and New Mexico)
packs a flotilla of stable two-person kayaks after an orientation session and
simple how-to-kayak lesson. Then it's out on the water, where a salty breeze
assists our passage along the Vancouver Island coastline. Our three guides,
Jorge, Jackie and owner-operator Terry Prichard marshal the less experienced
kayakers ahead to the first lunch beach as bald eagles lurk above in the
trees.
SKA's culinary instincts
are impeccable. When was the last time you went camping and feasted on deli
sandwiches, Tarragon chicken and lime cheesecake instead of baked beans? Not to
mention the wine and cheese hors-d'oeuvres that materialize shortly after final
landing each day.
The pace of six to ten
miles per day is relaxed enough to accommodate both teenage boys and retired
couples. These waters are relatively sheltered, allowing you to concentrate on
the rugged mountains of mainland BC in the distance and the outlandishly
colorful sea anemones clustered on nearby rocks.
Even one foggy morning
when someone tries out one of the guides' single kayaks and accidentally flips
it, there is no danger. The guides race to her side, pull her out of the sea
and bail out the water in mere minutes. Another day, we get a lesson in how to
traverse a strong eddy quickly and efficiently.
As we navigate the
perimeter of Nigei Island beneath sunny skies, we spot more wildlife. A minke
whale's fin flashes above the surface. A shy doe trots away from the shore as
the kayaks pull in, although her relatives can be heard sniffing around the
tents at night. Sea lions, harbor seals and salmon also pop up from time to
time.
Terry ensures the local
history, geology and vegetation don't go overlooked. He incorporates nature
walks into the morning routine and takes us through the ancient site of an
Indian village where little remains but dry grass and gooseberries. At night,
his fellow guides not only cook and clean up but also join the rest of the
group in campfire games and the infamous World Rock-Skipping
Championships.
Naturally, as the end of
the trip approaches, everyone is eager to spot a pod of orcas. They're not as
numerous as in Johnstone Strait, so there are no guarantees. But just as we're
about to turn into a channel and head back to Port Hardy, a shout goes up. And
there they are! The orcas head north, their giant black fins emerging sometimes
three abreast, blowing and breaching in a magnificent display that seems to
last forever. The sight of a baby black bear hunting rock crabs near the shore
minutes out of Port Hardy adds a nice closing touch.
Click here for Wilderness Islands trip
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