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Guest Article: Sea Kayaking From Loreto To La
Paz
By Rob Mohle -
Special to the San Luis Obispo Tribune June 4, 2004
Do you ever get tired of
reading about someone else's travel adventures? Tired of just dreaming about
exploring endless miles of deserted beaches, snorkeling in emerald green water,
and sleeping beneath a canopy of twinkling stars. Well dream no more, most sea
kayak guided tours require little or no experience on your part, just the
desire to have fun and immerse yourself in the beauty of the great
outdoors.
My latest sea kayak
adventure began in the quaint Mexican town of Loreto, just a two-hour flight
from Los Angeles International Airport. Located on the Sea of Cortez, about
two-thirds of the way down the Baja peninsula, Loreto was the first Spanish
settlement in California and the original capital of Spanish-ruled California.
Unlike many modern and busting Mexican tourist destinations, Loreto has
retained most of its old-time charm and character.
Two years ago I spent a
week kayaking the Islands of Carmen and Danzante just off the coast of Loreto.
This trip was to be a ten-day, sixty five-mile expedition from Loreto to La
Paz.
After checking into the
Hotel Villa de Loreto, our group of thirteen guests and 3 guides (Terry, Hayley
and Mario), gathered to review the itinerary and logistics of the trip. Terry
handed each of us three small dry bags for our clothes and personal items,
everything else necessary for the trip, including tents, sleeping bags and
pads, food and water was provided.
The next morning we
traveled by van to the put-in site at Agua Verde, a small fishing camp south of
Loreto. It was a breath-taking ride on an unpaved and precarious road with
stunning views of the rugged Sierra Giganta Mountains. Following lunch, we
loaded the seven-double and two-single kayaks with all the food, water, and
supplies for our trip, then our guide Hayley, a native New Zealander, provided
instruction on the basics of sea kayaking.
We carried our heavily
laden kayaks to the water's edge and pushed through the gentle waves. A light
breeze was blowing out of the north and the air temperature was a comfortable
eighty-five degrees. I removed my watch and tucked it safely in the bottom of
my dry bag. For the next ten days, the sun and stars would serve as my
timekeeper. The coastline between Loreto and La Paz is one of the most remote
and sparsely populated areas in all of Baja. The steep mountains rise abruptly
from the sea, effectively isolating the area from the rest of the peninsula.
There are no villages or towns and the only access to the occasional fish camp
is by sea.
I began each day with a
refreshing swim. While it was cool enough for a sleeping bag at night, as soon
as the sun appeared the temperature warmed quickly. Coffee was served at 6:30,
followed by a hearty breakfast and we were usually on the water by 9:30. The
pace was leisurely as our flotilla meandered along the desert coastline. The
sea was calm with no open-ocean swells and the water a brilliant emerald green.
We passed towering volcanic peaks, sculptured rock formations, miles of
unexplored beaches, and forests of giant cardon cactus. Prehistoric-looking
frigate birds circled high above while formations of pelicans glided across the
glassy water. An osprey eyed us warily from the safety of its nest, and the cry
of gulls filled the air. Offshore, a fin whale spouted, a river of dolphins
over a mile long snaked its way south, and a lonely sea lion could be heard
barking in the distance.
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By mid-afternoon we had
usually reached our destination for the day. After unloading the kayaks and
making camp there was time for relaxing, reading, snorkeling or hiking. The
water was a comfortable 75-80 degrees and crystal clear. We explored sea caves,
vertical ledges of rock, and shallow reefs decorated with a colorful display of
corals. I spotted a sea turtle, moray eels, giant florescent parrot fish,
needle fish, angel fish, lobster, scallops and countless other varieties of
colorful tropical fish.
Happy hour began at 5:00
followed by dinner at 6:00. I had hoped to lose a couple of pounds during the
trip but with a menu that included Mario's fish Vera Cruz, lobster, Chili
Rellenos, a variety of salads, and Terry's pineapple upside down cake fresh
from the Dutch oven, dieting was not an option.
Day 6 was a layover so
we didn't have to break camp. We spent the morning restocking our water supply
and took an afternoon hike to Mission Nuestra Senora de los Dolores del Sur
Chilla. This remote Jesuit outpost was built in 1721, and is now in ruins
except for a single standing wall with an arched doorway.
Our final campsite was
at Arroyo Verde, a white sand beach enclosed by steep walls of green volcanic
rock. After dinner we sat around the campfire and shared our experiences of the
trip, then Hayley read a selection from John Steinbeck's book, The Log from the
Sea of Cortez. By 9:30 the campsite was still. I stared up at the star-filled
sky. My eyelids were heavy but I couldn't let myself fall asleep, not yet.
Finally, a burst of light streaked across the sky. I made a wish and closed my
eyes.
Rob Mohle lives in
Shell Beach, California and is author of the book Adventure Kayaking, Trips
from Big Sur to San Diego.
Click here for Loreto to La Paz trip
description
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