By Nancy Mertz, co-owner Sea Kayak Adventures, Inc

Many of the sea kayak tour operators in the southern half of the Baja California peninsula, in the state of Baja California Sur, Mexico, base out of Loreto or La Paz; both coastal communities on the Sea of Cortez (called Gulf of California by locals) side of the peninsula. Most of the tours visit uninhabited islands and coastlines near those two starting points. (The reason no multi-day tours go out of Cabo San Lucas at Baja's southern tip is because there are no nearby islands to paddle to and the sea is exposed and rough there).

Loreto & La Paz comparison

Loreto is a sleepy Mexican fishing village about 8 hours by car north of Cabo San Lucas. Loreto was the original capital of the peninsula from 1697 when it was founded by Jesuits until 1828 when a hurricane leveled the town and the capital was permanently moved to La Paz. La Paz, a city of over 350,000, is the main ferry terminus to mainland Mexico, and is located approximately half way between Loreto and Cabo San Lucas.

Loreto has limited flights arriving weekly from Los Angeles on Alaska Airlines. La Paz has more options for flights.  One can also fly from los Cabos to either Loreto or La Paz on Aereo Calafia Airlines.  Aereo Calafia also flies from Tijuana south to to Loreto or los Cabos.  Loreto is a 2-day drive south of San Diego in California, USA; La Paz is another 4 hour drive south of Loreto. La Paz is situated between Loreto and Los Cabos.  Some guests elect to fly into los Cabos to take advantage of cheap flights, and take an affordable air-conditioned express bus to either Loreto or La Paz, or rent a car OR NEW - fly Aereo Calafia from Los Cabos to Loreto or La Paz. 

Both Loreto and La Paz have several large uninhabited islands nearby that are exquisite for paddling and exploring. Carmen and Danzante Islands are near Loreto, and Espiritu Santo is near La Paz. Loreto is a 2 hour drive and La Paz a 3 hour drive from Magdalena Bay, the southernmost gray whale calving lagoon on the Pacific side of the peninsula. The islands in the Sea of Cortez are part of the Islands and Protected Areas of the Gulf of California UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Loreto Bay has an additional layer of protected status having been designated by Presidential decree in 1996 endorsed by Congress, as "Loreto Bay National Marine Park" as well.  All three gray whale calving lagoons on the Pacific Coast have Mexican federal protected status also.  All outfitters and private parties must have the proper permits to visit and camp in these areas. Be sure to go with an outfitter than has the proper operating permits, or if you are in a private party do obtain the proper permits from the federal or park offices in both communities, as federal officers do regular site inspections in the protected areas.

Private parties are not permitted in any of Baja California's gray whale lagoons except with licensed guide, although they are allowed with permits in the Sea of Cortez. Sea kayaking with gray whales is no longer permitted in Baja's gray whale calving lagoons.  Loreto Bay National Marine Park does not allow permanent or semi-permanent basecamps nor generators or jetskis.  Permanent and semi-permanent outfitter basecamp structures are allowed on the island Espiritu Santo off La Paz.  All permitted outfitters are committed to preserving the laws and environment in which they operate and must pay all appropriate taxes to Mexico, must hire and train locals to be sea kayak guides and logistics managers, and have proper liability insurance and safety procedures/training.

Self-supported vs. motorboat supported tours

Most sea kayak tour operators fall into either of these two camps, so be sure you inquire about what kind of tour the company runs, and what they include in the tour price. Most tour outfitters have mostly double kayaks since the majority of commercial guests are fairly new to kayaking, but some will have single kayaks along, too, for folks to rotate into. So this is another issue to explore.   Be sure also to ask what is included in the tour price (for example what gear or hotel does the company provide?)

Weather in Baja California Sur

Daytime temperatures late December through February range from the 70's to 80's degrees F (or 21-27 degrees C), and night temperatures can dip to the 40's F/5 C, requiring a warm sweater and hat. March through early May temperatures range from the mid-80's to mid-90's F (29-35 C) during the day, and 55-65 F (13 C) at night. While rain is infrequent on the Baja peninsula, it can occur sporadically December - February. Bring synthetic and cotton clothes, in layers to provide for weather extremes (your outfitter will provide an equipment list).

Water temperatures range from 68 to 72 degrees F (20 C) thus many folks find a wetsuit a good idea December through mid-April for snorkeling). SPF sun protection clothing, light-colored, long-sleeved shirt and long pants, hats and polarized sunglasses are rapidly gaining in popularity and are great for outdoor travel in sunny climes. Periods of strong winds for up to 2-3 days at a time can occur in this part of the world from mid-November through March, although they start tapering off in February and March. Hurricane season is typically August through late October. Temperatures soar above 110 degrees F (43 C) in June, July and August, thus most outfitters don't operate tours then.

Whales in Baja California Sur

The rare blue whale, largest living creature in the world today, and the fin whale frequent the Sea of Cortez February through mid April, as well as the occasional humpback. One third of the world's whale species call Sea of Cortez home.  The once endangered California gray whale, whose population now numbers about 26,000, migrates each fall and winter down the Pacific coast from Alaska to spend the month of February and first couple weeks of March in the three large lagoons / inner waterways of Baja California peninsula's Pacific coast. There they rest, give birth and mate before heading back toward Alaska in late March.

Mexico strictly protects the California gray whale lagoons, thus one can only go into the lagoons with a licensed tour operator. Common dolphins, bottlenose dolphins and California sea lions are commonly seen throughout the waters of Baja. A common myth is that one can pet a whale from a kayak - this has never been known to happen. They move much faster than a kayak can paddle, and have never shown curiosity in kayaks.

However, it is becoming more and more common for gray whales in the lagoons of the Pacific coast to approach motorized boats (pangas) and even occasionally be petted by humans. The boat operators licensed by the Mexican government are quite expert at knowing how to let the whales approach them, ways to avoid stressing the whales and they must follow strict viewing guidelines/federal rules.  Baby whales and fishermen in pangas here have grown up together for generations - in fact it was a Mexican fisherman, Pachico Mayoral, who first had the first close encounter with a gray whale in 1972.

Why go with an outfitter

The seas and winds can be quite challenging at times, and destinations remote, thus seasoned local licensed guides are an invaluable asset unless you are very experienced in self-supported tours in this kind of environment - and even then, there are weather patterns unique to the Sea of Cortez.  A permitted outfitter will have the knowledge, experience, local staff, sound equipment, and the commitment to safety and service that can allow you to relax and enjoy your vacation in Baja California Sur. Also, due to the remoteness of the southern part of the Baja peninsula, the weather, and liability issues, finding expedition kayaks to rent in Loreto or La Paz is extremely difficult (outfitters don't want to rent out their touring boats since they need them to run their tours, kayaks are costly and/or liability issues).

Why Sea Kayaking

Sea kayaking is a magical, quiet pursuit quickly and easily learned; the craft are stable and seaworthy. Wildlife is less threatened by a person quietly drifting by in a kayak than any other approach. It is a great way to spend time with new friends and family in a wilderness setting. Kayaks can carry more gear than backpacks so many former hikers are turning to sea kayaking. Come see why sea kayaking is exploding in popularity, by going on a guided sea kayak tour in a beautiful wilderness setting.