By Rob Mohle - Special to the San Luis Obispo Tribune June 4, 2004
Baja Sunset

Do you ever get tired of reading about someone else's travel adventures? Tired of just dreaming about exploring endless miles of deserted beaches, snorkeling in emerald green water, and sleeping beneath a canopy of twinkling stars. Well dream no more, most sea kayak guided tours require little or no experience on your part, just the desire to have fun and immerse yourself in the beauty of the great outdoors.

My latest sea kayak adventure began in the quaint Mexican town of Loreto, just a two-hour flight from Los Angeles International Airport. Located on the Sea of Cortez, about two-thirds of the way down the Baja peninsula, Loreto was the first Spanish settlement in California and the original capital of Spanish-ruled California. Unlike many modern and busting Mexican tourist destinations, Loreto has retained most of its old-time charm and character.

Two years ago I spent a week kayaking the Islands of Carmen and Danzante just off the coast of Loreto. This trip was to be a ten-day, sixty five-mile expedition from Loreto to La Paz.

After checking into the Hotel Villa de Loreto, our group of thirteen guests and 3 guides (Terry, Hayley and Mario), gathered to review the itinerary and logistics of the trip. Terry handed each of us three small dry bags for our clothes and personal items, everything else necessary for the trip, including tents, sleeping bags and pads, food and water was provided.

The next morning we traveled by van to the put-in site at Agua Verde, a small fishing camp south of Loreto. It was a breath-taking ride on an unpaved and precarious road with stunning views of the rugged Sierra Giganta Mountains. Following lunch, we loaded the seven-double and two-single kayaks with all the food, water, and supplies for our trip, then our guide Hayley, a native New Zealander, provided instruction on the basics of sea kayaking.

We carried our heavily laden kayaks to the water's edge and pushed through the gentle waves. A light breeze was blowing out of the north and the air temperature was a comfortable eighty-five degrees. I removed my watch and tucked it safely in the bottom of my dry bag. For the next ten days, the sun and stars would serve as my timekeeper. The coastline between Loreto and La Paz is one of the most remote and sparsely populated areas in all of Baja. The steep mountains rise abruptly from the sea, effectively isolating the area from the rest of the peninsula. There are no villages or towns and the only access to the occasional fish camp is by sea.

I began each day with a refreshing swim. While it was cool enough for a sleeping bag at night, as soon as the sun appeared the temperature warmed quickly. Coffee was served at 6:30, followed by a hearty breakfast and we were usually on the water by 9:30. The pace was leisurely as our flotilla meandered along the desert coastline. The sea was calm with no open-ocean swells and the water a brilliant emerald green. We passed towering volcanic peaks, sculptured rock formations, miles of unexplored beaches, and forests of giant cardon cactus. Prehistoric-looking frigate birds circled high above while formations of pelicans glided across the glassy water. An osprey eyed us warily from the safety of its nest, and the cry of gulls filled the air. Offshore, a fin whale spouted, a river of dolphins over a mile long snaked its way south, and a lonely sea lion could be heard barking in the distance.
Angel Fish

By mid-afternoon we had usually reached our destination for the day. After unloading the kayaks and making camp there was time for relaxing, reading, snorkeling or hiking. The water was a comfortable 75-80 degrees and crystal clear. We explored sea caves, vertical ledges of rock, and shallow reefs decorated with a colorful display of corals. I spotted a sea turtle, moray eels, giant florescent parrot fish, needle fish, angel fish, lobster, scallops and countless other varieties of colorful tropical fish.

Happy hour began at 5:00 followed by dinner at 6:00. I had hoped to lose a couple of pounds during the trip but with a menu that included Mario's fish Vera Cruz, lobster, Chili Rellenos, a variety of salads, and Terry's pineapple upside down cake fresh from the Dutch oven, dieting was not an option.

Day 6 was a layover so we didn't have to break camp. We spent the morning restocking our water supply and took an afternoon hike to Mission Nuestra Senora de los Dolores del Sur Chilla. This remote Jesuit outpost was built in 1721, and is now in ruins except for a single standing wall with an arched doorway.

Our final campsite was at Arroyo Verde, a white sand beach enclosed by steep walls of green volcanic rock. After dinner we sat around the campfire and shared our experiences of the trip, then Hayley read a selection from John Steinbeck's book, The Log from the Sea of Cortez. By 9:30 the campsite was still. I stared up at the star-filled sky. My eyelids were heavy but I couldn't let myself fall asleep, not yet. Finally, a burst of light streaked across the sky. I made a wish and closed my eyes.

Rob Mohle lives in Shell Beach, California and is author of the book Adventure Kayaking, Trips from Big Sur to San Diego.