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Ask an Expert: Selecting a Guided Tour in Baja
California Sur, Mexico
By Nancy Mertz, co-owner Sea
Kayak Adventures, Inc
Many of the tour
operators in the southern half of the Baja peninsula, in the state of Baja
California Sur, Mexico, base out of Loreto or La Paz; both coastal communities on the
Sea of Cortez side of the peninsula. Most of the tours visit uninhabited
islands and coastlines near those two starting points. (The reason no multi-day
tours go out of Cabo San Lucas is because there are no nearby islands to paddle
to and the sea is much more exposed there).
Loreto & La Paz
comparison
Loreto is a sleepy
Mexican fishing village about 8 hours by car from Cabo San Lucas. It was the
original capital of the peninsula until 1828 when a hurricane leveled the town
and the capital was permanently moved to La Paz. La Paz, a city of 290,000, is
the main ferry terminus to mainland Mexico, and is located approximately half
way between Loreto and Cabo.
Loreto has limited
flights arriving daily from Los Angeles or Houston on Alaska, Delta, Continental and Aero Mexico. La Paz has more options for flights in and out on those carriers and
others. Loreto is a 2-day drive south from San Diego in California, USA. Some
guests elect to fly into Cabo San Lucas to take advantage of cheap flights, and
take an air-conditioned bus to either Loreto or La Paz for a fraction of what
it would cost in USA.
Both Loreto and La Paz
have several large uninhabited islands nearby that are exquisite for paddling
and exploring. Carmen and Danzante Islands are near Loreto, and Espiritu Santo is near La Paz. Both Loreto and La Paz are within reach of Magdalena Bay, the
gray whale calving lagoon on the Pacific side of the peninsula. All the islands in the
Sea of Cortez and all three gray whale lagoons on the Pacific Coast have
Mexican national park status, and all outfitters and private parties must have
the proper permits. Be sure to go with an outfitter than has the proper
operating permits, or if you are in a private party do obtain the proper
permits from the national park office in both communities, as federal officers
do regular site inspections in the park areas.
Private parties are not
permitted at all in Magdalena Bay, although they are allowed with permits in
the Sea of Cortez. Permitted outfitters are committed to preserving the laws
and environment in which they operate and must pay all appropriate taxes to
Mexico, must hire and train locals to be sea kayak guides and logistics
managers, and have proper liability insurance and safety
procedures/training.
Self-supported vs.
motorboat supported tours
Most sea kayak tour
operators fall into either of these two camps, so be sure you inquire about
what kind of tour the company runs, and what they include in the tour price.
Most tour outfitters have mostly double kayaks since the majority of guests are
fairly new to kayaking, but some will have single kayaks along, too, for folks
to rotate into. So this is another issue to explore.
Weather in Baja
California Sur
Daytime temperatures
late December through February range from the 70's to 80's (degrees F), and
night temperatures can dip to the 40's F, requiring a warm sweater and hat. March
through early May they range from the mid-80's to mid-90's F during the day, and
55-60 F at night. While rain is infrequent on the Baja peninsula, it can occur
December - February. Bring synthetic and cotton clothes, in layers to provide
for weather extremes (your outfitter will provide an equipment
list).
Water temperatures range
from 68 to 72 degrees F (some find a wet suit a good idea December through March
for snorkeling). SPF clothing, light-colored, long-sleeved shirt and long pants
& hats are rapidly gaining in popularity and are great for outdoor travel
in sunny climes. Periods of strong winds for up to 2-3 days at a time can occur
in this part of the world from November through March, although they start
tapering off in February and March. Hurricane season is August through
November. Temperatures soar above 110 degrees F in June, July and August, thus
most outfitters don't operate tours then.
Whales in Baja
California Sur
The rare blue whale,
largest living creature in the world today, and the fin whale frequent the Sea
of Cortez February through mid April, as well as the occasional humpback. The
once endangered California gray whale, whose population now numbers about
28,000, migrates each fall and winter down the Pacific coast from Alaska to
spend the month of February and first couple weeks of March in the three large
lagoons / inner waterways of Baja California peninsula's Pacific coast. There
they rest, give birth and mate before heading back toward Alaska in late
March.
Mexico strictly protects
the California gray whale lagoons, thus one can only go into the lagoons with a
licensed kayak tour operator or motorized tour operator. Common dolphins,
bottle nose dolphins and California sea lions are commonly seen throughout the
waters of Baja. A common myth is that one can pet a whale from a kayak - this
has never been known to happen. They move much faster than a kayak can paddle,
and have never shown curiosity in kayaks.
However, it is becoming
more and more common for gray whales in the lagoons of the Pacific coast to
approach motorized boats and even occasionally be petted by humans. The boat
operators licensed by the Mexican government are quite expert at knowing how to
let the whales approach them, ways to avoid stressing the
whales and they must follow federal rules.
Why go with an
outfitter
The seas and winds can
be quite challenging at times, and destinations remote, thus seasoned guides
are an invaluable asset unless you are very experienced in self-supported tours
in this kind of environment - and even then, there are weather patterns unique
to the Sea of Cortez. A permitted outfitter will have the knowledge;
experience, sound equipment, and the commitment to safety and service that can
allow you to relax and enjoy your vacation in Baja California. Also, due to the
remoteness of the southern part of the Baja peninsula, the weather, and
liability issues, finding expedition kayaks to rent in Loreto or La Paz is
extremely difficult (outfitters don't want to rent out their touring boats
since they need them to run their tours).
Why Sea
Kayaking
It is a magical, quiet
pursuit quickly and easily learned; the craft are stable and seaworthy. Wildlife
is less threatened by a person quietly drifting by in a kayak than any other
approach. It is a great way to spend time with new friends in a wilderness
setting. Kayaks can carry more gear than backpacks so many former hikers are
turning to sea kayaking. Come see why sea kayaking is exploding in popularity,
by going on a guided sea kayak tour in a beautiful setting.
Click
here for Baja trips descriptions
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