Baja Mountain Missions & Village Oases

Explore San Javier, Mission Tour, Travel to San Miguel de Comondu

Meet in Loreto at 8:30 AM for a short orientation, then load up and head to the mountains. Our first stop is the mission town of San Javier, accessed by a paved road just 45 minutes from Loreto. Over 1400’ (420 meters) above the sea level the air is cooler than Loreto and the sky is usually a lovely pale blue. Explore the town on foot while learning about the missionaries that built the mission church in the early 1800’s that you see today. We also visit some special friends in town who give you a glimpse of life in this quiet village.

We have lunch at a local ranchero and continue our drive west, winding through the mountains on dirt roads. Sometimes we’re lucky and the grader has been through recently, and other times it can be a bumpy ride. By later afternoon we arrive at San Miguel de Comondu. Comondu is the name of the Municipality that was created in 1971 by Presidential decree and today, it is the 7th largest municipality by area in all of Mexico. While some 80,000 people live here, over half are in the inland city and municipal seat of Ciudad Constitución, a large agriculture center. 

By contrast, tonight’s village has about 150 inhabitants, most of whom make their living off the land and in small-scale business enterprise. One ambitious local, in love with her town and heritage, is Jacqueline, who serves as both the town’s informal ambassador and owner of a small hotel called Hacienda Don Mario. This is our home for the night where we also enjoy a bountiful dinner of local fare and learn more about the towns history.

ACCOMMODATION : Hacienda Don Mario

MEALS INCLUDED : Lunch, Dinner

Cultural Exploration of San Miguel and San Jose de Comondu, Return to Loreto

This morning we learn about life in this out-of-the way village. It may start with breakfast when we have piloncillo or ‘panocha de gajo’ which is a flour tortilla with fresh goat cheese.

The main highway once passed close by here, but in the 1970’s it was moved further west, leaving San Miguel and San Jose de Comondu more isolated. This has helped preserve their way of life and the charm of the town. Agriculture is important here and figs, dates, olives and mangos are a few of the crops grown.  

There is also a legendary grape here – the first to be exported from old world Spain to new world Mexico and thus has historical significance. It is known as the missionary grape as it was brought across the Atlantic from the Canary Islands by the Jesuits.  From South America the Jesuit missionaries migrated north along with the vines as it was used to make their sacramental wine. It remained in Mexico for decades and again moved north with the missionaries to Texas and New Mexico, and finally, in 1769, to California where it was grown with great success. Today the grape is known as the Pais in Chile, where it has played a prominent role and also sometimes called the Negra Peruana. In Argentina it known as the Criolla Chica and in North America is still recognized as the Mission.  

San Miguel is a town of traditions, and we may visit locals making cheese from goat’s milk, or weaving mats from a local palm. Nearby San Jose de Comondu was the site of the fourth mission built by the Jesuits and had one of the biggest mission churches. It met a sad end when a Spanish general blew it up. However one of the naves has been preserved as a beautiful stone chapel and is well worth a visit.

Another highlight today is a hike to an intriguing geologic formation known locally as the prism. Some 14 million years ago volcanic lava cooled to create symmetrical columns that we visit. 

After a lunch of local fare we begin our 2-hour drive back to Loreto, passing through spectacular mountain scenery and learning more about the natural and cultural history of the area as we go.

By late afternoon we are back in Loreto.

MEALS INCLUDED : Breakfast, Lunch